Sunday 23 March 2014

Yesterday was clean-up day, something we have to do to stop the van becoming a tip! Bren also managed to do 4 loads of washing and drying which proved quite expensive. Our problem is not so much the washing, which we can usually do with no problem, but trying to dry and air it when the weather is unreliable is a nightmare. We’re going to have to find a solution for our next long trip.

Anyway, today is move-on time and much as we have enjoyed Lisbon we must start progressing north. There is still plenty to see so we don’t have to rush, but we don’t want to have to spend the last couple of days hammering up the motorways. The next logical place on our route was Coimbra, a largish university town that once was the capital of Portugal and there is a conveniently placed aire so we decided to take a look.

Getting out of Lisbon was straightforward enough but the urbanisation seemed to go on for ever and the main IC2 road just seemed to be a procession of small towns and villages, interspersed with car and truck sales and breakers, garden and landscaping centres, roadside cafes etc. with little sign of countryside. We stopped for lunch just south of Coimbra then set the satnav which took us straight to the aire. Unfortunately it was in a popular weekend park near a swimming pool and it was packed, and not just the motorhome parking. What we could see of the city itself was quite attractive but not as close as we were led to believe so we decided to give it a miss and press on.

Bathalha

Stone sheep!

Storks nesting - a common sight

As a backup we’d checked out a couple of aires near Aveiro and one at Bestida caught our eye. It turned out to be a car-park right next to a tiny fishing port and looking out over a lagoon and was quite empty. Normally we would be a little hesitant about being by ourselves but there was an active bar and café across the road and we did not feel uncomfortable so decided to stay.

Fishing boats of Bestida

Friday 21 March 2014

We think Benfica won.

Day two of our Lisbon visit started grey and a little threatening. Nevertheless we caught the local bus (free this time!) to Placa de Figueiro and after a short wait joined the sight-seeing tour that covered the eastern side of Lisbon.

The Lisbon Expo of 1998 was centred on the north bank of the Rio Tejo in what is called the Parque das Nacoes , and many new buildings were constructed. Now given over to commercial and residential use, the area retains some of the features of the Expo including museums and exhibitions and the Oceanario, one of Europe’s largest oceanariums. There is a lot to see and the tour whetted our appetites to see more in future. From here we could also see the Ponte Vasco de Gama, the longest bridge in Europe at 17km, carrying the A12/IP1 motorway across the estuary. A selection of the many photos we took:

P & O Oceana was in town

Vasco de Gama Shopping Centre

Railway Station

A selection of roundabout art we saw on our perambulations:

From here the bus travelled round to the north of the city then back into the centre through well-appointed residential areas with long wide tree-lined avenues, and statues and monuments everywhere.

The Bull Ring

You think the UK has a graffiti problem?

Quite good though

Lamp post embellishments were everywhere

Old and new in harmony

The first motor sales garage in Lisbon

Railway Station

Eden Theatre - example of Art Deco

Finally deposited back at the square, it was noticeably cooler and rain threatening, so we had a nice lunch in another of the myriad of small cafes that abound in Lisbon. Afterwards Bren wanted some thread and buttons to finish off a couple of the projects she has been working on ever since we left home so we walked to the street of haberdashers: a feature of the reconstruction of the Baixa after the 1755 earthquake was streets dedicated to a particular trade or occupation, which to a lesser extent continues today.

But with the weather definitely now turning we decided to give the last bus tour a miss – it was only a short trip round a small area in an open minibus – and head for home. Of course it was now getting into rush hour and the traffic was horrendous, not helped by an accident between a bus and car across a big junction (nobody hurt). And we had only been in the van for less than five minutes when the heavens opened – just made it!

From a slightly shaky start we decided that we like Lisbon very much and there is an awful lot to see – the bus tours just gave us a taste. When we come back we’ll get a Lisbon Card, which covers transport costs, entries to museums etc. and spend a day exploring each area in depth.

Thursday 20 March 2014

Our plan today was to “do” Lisbon so after breakfast caught the local bus into the city – a very reasonable €1.80 each for a 45 minute ride through the suburbs, which unfortunately are not it’s best feature! However we were dropped off in Placa de Figueiro, one of the large central squares and where all the touristy bits are centred.

Checking out the sight-seeing buses, the Yellow Buses seemed to offer a good deal – three hop on hop off bus routes, a tram route and free use of all the city transport facilities (except the Metro which was of no use to us anyway) valid for 48 hours at €25 each. So we invested €50 and it turned out to be one of the best deals we've bought this trip.

The first was a tour of the older, historical parts of Lisbon with an excellent commentary. There is history around every corner, tainted by the earthquake of 1755 which destroyed most of Lisbon and caused it to rebuilt much as we see it today. However time has not been kind to many of the less well known buildings and even in the main squares there is a need for much renovation – something we have experienced before in Portugal, unlike Spain where much is spent making and keeping their towns and cities attractive.

Edward VII Gardens

Beer Museum - full of Spurs supporters!

Placa de Figueiro

St Georges Castle

On our return we sought out lunch at one of the dozens of street cafes before heading to Praca Commercialidade to catch the tram. We noticed a lot of English football supporters, well you couldn't actually miss them......! Seems Spurs were playing Benfica in the European Cup tonight.

Local transport!

Placa Commercialadade

Placa Commercialadade

Lisbon still maintains an extensive network of trams, both modern and the ancient “elektricos” which ply the narrower streets. This tour is called “The Hills of Lisbon” and took us on a ride in one of the old classic tramcars – still in original condition although some modern safety features have been added – through the old hilly parts where a bus would be impossible and even cars face difficulties. It’s a driver’s nightmare! Once again we saw much history, often catching us by surprise and gone before we even had time to take a photo.

Cathedral or "Se"

Se

Town Hall - Liberty Square

Classic Lisbon tram

Once dropped off, we made our way back to the bus stop but couldn't find it – until a stallholder told us we were in the wrong square. Well there are so many of them! It was dark by the time we were back to the van and we were exhausted, so a light tea, a DVD then bed.

We’re going back tomorrow.

Wednesday 19 March 2014

It was such a nice quiet spot (after Frenchie next door cleared off and took his telly with him!) that we decided to stay another day, which was spent quietly enjoying the sun. However with no facilities (though we did discover a toilet across the dam on the way out) we needed to move on, if only to empty the tanks and get fresh water. Not having properly wild-camped for a while, you get into the mind-set of not thinking about how much water you’re using, or creating………..

So this morning we were up bright and early to thick mist, which soon cleared up in the hot sunshine and on our way to Lisbon. Back-tracking to Alcacer do Sal, we called into Lidl for a few basics then hit the main road again north. It was nothing special, just a good clear road through occasional towns and a couple of Natural Parks. Approaching Lisbon it got decidedly busier and eventually we were obliged to join the motorway in order to cross the toll bridge over the Rio Tejo, said to be one of the longest suspension bridges in Europe and which gave us a fine view of the city.

According to all the campsite books and information we had, there is only one campsite in or anywhere near Lisbon and that is the municipal site at Monsanto so we headed there. It is very well signposted from as far back as the motorway and we found it easily – but drove straight past the entrance! Whoops! A large site, it was only a quarter full but we were made welcome by friendly and efficient staff and directed to a nice, fully serviced and level pitch amongst trees. After having dealt with the somewhat pressing domestic situation (!) we settled down for a late lunch and an afternoon checking out the maps and books.

We've booked – and paid, that’s unusual – for four nights so that gives us plenty of time to explore. The frequent bus into town is just down the road and takes 45mins.

We’ll let you know.

Monday 17 March 2014

After servicing the van, paying our bill and saying goodbye to new-found friends we were away reasonably early for once. As it was likely we may be “wild-camping” for a couple of days we decided to refill the gas bottles and also the fuel tank at a conveniently placed garage in Portimao.

Then we headed north, along the lesser “N” roads and into more forested and hilly country to Monchique, a pretty town, where an Intermarche gave us the opportunity to top up the provisions.
And the satnav failed! It was a bit weird driving without a constant update although navigation, of course, wasn't a problem. So whilst we were stopped at Monchique a little bit of fiddling then doing a reset got us back in business.

To help counter the low rainfall and poor water resources, over the years Portugal has constructed a whole series of dams, barragems as they are known. To encourage more use of them for leisure activities most have free parking areas where motorhomes are welcome to stop over. Some also have water and waste disposal, in fact they have become unofficial “aires”. There were several on our meandering route north so we decided to have a look. The first provided an excellent lunch stop at Barragem Santa-Clara, where a few motorhomes were taking advantage of a beautiful quiet spot.

Barragem Santa-Clara

But, with thoughts of getting some miles under the wheels and heading north, we elected to try for a barragem nearer to Lisbon which was a city we wished to visit. Crossing the regional border between Algarve and Alentajo, it quickly became apparent by the road surfaces that this was a poorer area of Portugal, reminiscent of Morocco! Eventually we were spilled out onto the Ic1, the old major north/south trunk road and made quicker time, until we met the signs – the barragems are all well signposted – that took us to Barragem de Pego do Altar. As far as surface area goes, this is a huge lake but it is mostly along narrower valleys and is impossible to see in its entirety, at least without an aeroplane! The first parking area was quite full but a second, across the dam, had plenty of room so we found a nice spot overlooking the water.

En route through the hills

Pego do Altar

Pego do Altar

Today has been one of the warmest of the whole trip, to the extent that we had the air-conditioning on for a while, and the evening very balmy. It is hard to remember that it is still only mid-March.