Friday 31 Jan 2014

Despite there being hundreds of vans here, it is a very quiet (and very dark!) site so apart from the distant breaking of the waves on the golden sands.........zzzzzzzzzzzzz

Despite putting our money out nobody delivered any bread! Not to worry, we'd got half a baguette left over from yesterday which was ok toasted and our friends went into the village and brought us back another. So we spent the rest of the day just chillin', although it got very windy which lasted all day. However the forecast is for it to calm down and be fine for at least the next few days.

Sunset at Taghazoute Beach

The lights start to come on

Thursday 30 Jan 2014

We've now been away from home for a month!

Of course, because we've decided to move on, the day started bright and clear - but very cold. It seemed that everyone else had heard the forecast as the campsite was emptying rapidly so after the usual chores, paid the man (whose name was Rafid and judging by the way he kept pestering us for drink was an alcoholic Muslim!) and got under way.

And got lost. It appears that every road into and out of Tafraoute is the R104 and we wasted half an hour trying to find the right one. However eventually a road sign and a bus driver pointed us onto the road to Agadir, which was mainly single track tarmac with gravel verges to provide passing places. Fortunately there was little traffic as you had to plan exactly where you were going to put your wheels!

The road wound up into the mountains and, as before, the scenery was spectacular. Again over a hundred photos taken so here are a few of the better ones:

Watch those verges!

Village clinging to the mountainside

Mountain road

Distant mountains

Getting closer

Roadside mini-mosque

Mountain fortress - now a hotel

Every town and village has a mosque

Lunch stop

Dried up river bed

By early afternoon we were descending back to the plain between the Anti Atlas and Haut Atlas Mountains towards Agadir. Everywhere we saw almond trees which were just starting to blossom.

Almond Blossom

A reservoir in the hills

Soon we were back to what equates to civilisation and passed through a couple of bustling towns. It was quite common on entering or leaving a town to come across a temporary police checkpoint, where the rule is that you stop until you are waved on by the police. Up to now we have never actually been stopped but today one policeman was definitely waiting to see if I was going to.........

Welcome to Agadir

Agadir is a modern sea port on the west coast of Morocco and the excellent roads take you through the edges of the city. We were making for the giant Marjane hypermarket to re-stock our dwindling supply of provisions and for the first time in Morocco the satnav took us straight to it. Mind you, it was signposted from over 10km away.

That done, and the day wearing on, it was time to find somewhere to stop. All through our time in Morocco we have been reading on the internet about Taghazoute Beach being a great place to stay so, satnav programmed again, we set off to easily find it around 20 mins north.

This is basically an ex-camping site that has been taken over by "wild-camping" motorhomes, but now has "guardiens" who generally look after the site and provide basic security for a small fee. There are no facilities as such, except for a sewer access for emptying toilet cassettes, although local enterprise has stepped in. A large water bowser comes round twice a day providing as much water as you want for 20 dirhams; we're told that if you leave 2 dirhams in a plastic bag tied to your mirror it will be replaced in the morning with a baguette by the local baker. We'll see.

As usual as all over Morocco, various tradesmen wander round but they are not pushy, but when you see and hear of just what is available! A dutch lady has set up a massage salon in an old bus - said by one of the group to be excellent; you can have a decorative mural painted on your van for 200dh in 10mins; a local guy will supply and fit solar panels, properly and efficiently, for less than half of the UK cost. If you need maintenance or repairs, it can be arranged. Anything, just ask!

And on top of this the location is superb; right on the beach, uncrowded despite there being upwards of 200 vans parked up, the local village an easy one and a half km walk and a bus service to Agadir right outside.

We drove slowly around and managed to locate various vans from the group that crossed to Morocco originally, parked up more or less together, so we joined them. We may well stay a few days here.

Wednesday 29 Jan 2014

A weak and watery start to the day and before long the clouds gathered. It looked threatening so we decided to stay in, except to collect the bread we ordered last night, and sure enough it started to rain - not particularly heavy but enough to put us off the planned walk into town.

A good WiFi connection on the site meant we could leave Radio 2 on all day as well as the usual blogging and forums. Later in the day when it looked set to continue for a while got a weather forecast. Horror of horrors, the rain was going to turn into sleet with snow later, tonight and tomorrow.

Quick confab and we decided it was too late to move today, but we would get away early tomorrow, back to the coast where the forecast was much better. So settle down and after tea invited Derek and June over for drinks, nibbles and a chinwag.

Shame really as Tafraoute looked an interesting place to explore. We'll put it on the list of places to come back to next time.

Tuesday 28 Jan 2014

Today we move on and it's "au revoir" to the group as we go our separate ways. An early start saw us heading back to Tiznit, then just about 10km north of Sidi Ifni, a car came the other way waving us down. We went round a bend and............

Camels. Dozens of them, the first we've seen in Morocco.

Big ones, small ones and even little baby ones riding in the back of a Landrover.

And of course as soon as we started taking pictures, out came the hands "Dirhams, dirhams".








Once they were all past we continued on to Tiznit, which seemed an awful lot bigger than when we came down, and took the R104 towards the mountains and Tafroute.

And as the day progressed, so the sun came out and the scenery just got better and better. We took 136 photos today, maxing out one sim card and flattening the camera batteries. Here is just a small selection.

We stopped for lunch in a valley. The other van is the couple from the group who also didn't fancy a trip into the desert, so we paired up.

Lunch Stop

Local vegetation

Satnav being useless, we relied on the Michelin map and the, generally good, road-signs. However not all of them had translation from Arabic and when we reached Tiffermit, we came to a fork, both saying Tafroute but one saying 39km and the other 60km, which we actually started along until the map showed it to be a minor road heading into the mountains. So we turned round and took the other way along the "main" road R104 - well wouldn't you? Unfortunately another sign had not been translated and it was only a km or so before the road petered out onto a compacted gravel track - compacted by huge construction lorries (fortunately of which there were only a couple about).

There was 30km of it! In fairness it was passable but very slow and EXTREMELY dusty. At one point another fork had us heading off in the wrong direction but stopping and flagging down a local got us sorted out. The scenery however was still spectacular.

Terraces of almond trees just coming into blossom

We're about 3500ft up here

However we persevered and eventually the road became tarmacadam again at Tahala, although only one and a half lanes wide with gravel verges in most places.

The road improves again

A local cemetery with a spectacular backdrop

Soon we were rolling into Tafraoute and our site book gave us accurate directions to Camping Trois Palmiers, who parked us up along with 20 or so other vans just outside their compound, which was "full" of spread-out French and Germans. They were just in the process of installing new electricity points (please, any time-served electricians stay away, you'll have a heart attack!) so in an hour or so we had hook-up.

Then a stroll the 500 yards into town. Now this is the real Morocco with ramshackle shops, often just shop-fronts, workshops, market stalls, scruffy cafes and all absolutely thronged with people, it now being late afternoon when everywhere becomes busy. And we were not the least bit intimidated, the locals generally taking little notice of us but occasionally a friendly smile and greeting was forthcoming. We can say that, up to now, everywhere we have been we have been made welcome. We'll take some photos later.

A coffee at one of the more European-appearing cafes before returning to the site. As it got dark so it became quite cold; it was only then we realised we were still over 3000 ft above sea-level.

Monday 27 Jan 2014

We're now considering our next move. Three of our mini-group want to go off into the more desert areas and head east, mainly because the weather forecast for the coast is a bit off later in the week. We, along with the fifth couple don't really feel ready for a three day trek, so we're planning to head north east from Sidi Ifni to Tafraoute which we're told is very nice. After that back to Agadir and north along the coast.

Steps to the site from the town

But first we need to restock the larder so another walk up into town, get some more cash and then visit the market. We're starting to get the hang of this now but still suspect we're paying the "tourist" rate for everything - but it's still ridiculously cheap so we don't mind helping out the locals, who are really quite open and friendly. Milk, bread, juice, fruit, vegetables and salad all duly purchased and then a gentle stroll back to the van where one of the original group had joined us.

A view to the north

Lunch then we decided to take a walk along the beach. Sand at the shoreline with pebbles and stones at the tide line, it was relatively clean but rocks close offshore and the still quite large Atlantic waves discouraged swimmers, although a few wet-suited surfers could be seen a little way out. Sidi Ifni is not really a holiday resort, just a place where hordes of motor-homers come to enjoy the winter sun and the town gears up for them accordingly.

Walking along the beach - quite like this photo

Back to the van and beer-o-clock has started so dragged out the chairs and joined in, contributing a Christmas cake. As everybody is moving on tomorrow and the group is splitting, we've decided to have a "sod-off" party - they're nuts these funsters!

Sunday 26 Jan 2014

Today is Sunday. We don't do anything Sundays.

Why change the habit of a lifetime!

Sit in the sun and get the beers out.

Saturday 25 Jan 2014

We needed a few things so we took a walk up into the town. Sidi Ifni was a Spanish enclave until 1969 and it shows in some of the architecture. The town is very clean and tidy, though they don't tend to spend much on upkeep of the roads and footpaths - but there's not a lot of traffic so we did as the locals do and walked in the road!

Hotel de Ville

First stop, top up the mifi then go in search of some more dirhams. As it's Saturday the banks are closed but we risked the cash machines and were successful with the second - instructions in English too. Found the fuel station; we're going to need that when we leave.Then in search of the market, via the local equivalent of a car-boot sale. Now we know where all the UK recycled stuff goes to..........

Hotel Belle Vue

We have to say that there was not a lot there, but we've come to realise that nothing really happens in Morocco until late afternoon. However some places are open and we found a shop which became "Djellaba Central" - see later for the reasons and a photo - where we entered into negotiations, i.e. haggled with the proprietor for local garments. I don't seem to have got the hang of this somehow, as after we had agreed a price and paid, the guy handed me back 30Dh............ Terry got his djellaba and Bren got a beautiful long overdress with a scarf to go with it. We'll post pictures later.

Central Park

Then into the market to get some fruit and veg and bread. We think the price of bread should be 1Dh (about 8p) but we're usually charged 2Dh - they see the tourists coming! We didn't bother with meat though.......

Local butcher

Back to the van for lunch and an afternoon relaxing in the sun. Top up the water tanks and empty the waste - every drop of water we use is carried by Terry - twice! Time to get the trolley out.

There is always a lot of coming and going on this campsite and it is obviously very popular. It's also cheaper than the two enclosed sites where we even saw vans parked up outside. Why? There are also quite a number of semi-permanent residents and of course they "bagged" the best, beach side, pitches. However, wherever you park there is the constant sound of waves breaking, reflected back by the cliffs at the back of the site. It's actually quite soothing.......but watch the sunburn!

In the evening, the group decided to go out for a meal but some shopping was required first. Back to "Djellaba Central".

The guy must have thought it was Christmas as he sold lots more to our group, including us. Seems, though, that haggling was not his thing and only one of the group got anything reduced, and that by only a few dirhams. No matter as it was all incredibly cheap anyway. A full djellaba cost 200Dh - £17.50. A scarf 30Dh.

And so to the restaurant. This time we booked a table at a recommended place as we walked past, so when we returned a hour later they were ready for us. A fairly simple menu, and not the cheapest, but with enough choice to satisfy us all. We dined on excellent grilled beef in a wonderful mushroom sauce with a selection of local vegetables. Others had king prawns, anchovies and even spaghetti done in a fish and seafood sauce. And everybody made sure Bren got hers first.....

We were a little perplexed to see that they were perfectly happy for you to bring your own drinks - alcohol of course not available in this Muslim country. We just had coca cola, but were amused when the rest, on wine and beer, got charged "corkage" - they don't miss a trick!

Back to the van and it had turned decidedly cool so hot chocolate before bed. An excellent day.

Friday 24 Jan 2014

The sun doesn't reach the van until around mid-day due to the cliffs we're parked under. However when it does it gets, well, quite warm!

Today was just a hang around, tidy up, do a bit of washing sort of day, fighting with the French to get some internet access - many of the campsites and a lot of the cafes offer free wifi. Unfortunately our position means we can't use the mifi as it can't get a reliable mobile phone signal.

The beach is literally 50 yards away, but rather stony. As it's been a bit windy it's also a bit rough, even for the surfers who congregate here - we've got a couple of van loads parked almost next to us. So we haven't as yet ventured there.

Sunset at Sidi Ifni

As the sun goes down, we all tend to congregate around one or other of the vans with suitable refreshments. But it soon goes cool and the djellabas come out. Must treat ourselves tomorrow.

Thursday 23 Jan 2014

It stopped raining and a fresh breeze got up during the night which blew the clouds away so it was a brilliant blue sky to welcome us.

Roads were generally okay.........

After breakfast the convoy set off south along the coast road, generally in good condition although there were places where repairs were needed or were being carried out – at one point we crossed a ford (dried up) whilst a bridge was being constructed. The scenery was superb - once again the photos don’t really tell the tale – mostly desert scrub with patches of cultivation although we have no idea what they were growing. A flock of sheep crossing the road held us up for a few moments.

Traffic hazard

One of the group needing a bottle of gas, we paused at the village of Mirleft and went into a general store/grocery, taking the opportunity of replenishing our cupboards. It was well stocked and like a throwback to the 50’s; the proprietor spoke excellent English too. He’s probably used to hordes of motor-homers.

And it’s here, perhaps, that we should mention that they are everywhere, mainly French (Morocco was a French colony) and the majority are long-termers, much like the Brits in Spain. They are well catered for, although the sheer numbers mean all the campsites are full up by early afternoon. The attraction is, of course, the weather but it is also remarkably cheap – almost everything, fuel, food, site fees, eating out is less than half UK or French prices. And, like us, they tend to travel in small groups although it is not uncommon for them to stay in one place for several months.

In the plan was an idea to visit Plage Legriza, said to be the most beautiful beach on this coast. This may well be so but the developers had moved in and the road was all but impassable for motorhomes, so we gave that up and continued along what was now becoming a quite mountainous road, diving down and across little river valleys then climbing back up to skirt quite high cliffs. It is here that the Anti Atlas mountain range meets the Atlantic ocean.

Sidi Ifni used to be a Spanish enclave up until 1969, a port having the advantage of its proximity to the Canary Islands. Having been taken over by Morocco, much money has been, and still is being, spent, a feature which is immediately apparent as you enter the town on a fine new road past a pair of horse sculptures. There is much new development in evidence and an information booklet we came across later showed what had been done, and what was planned for the future.

Crossing the river to the old town we immediately turned off, past two walled (and very crowded) campsites to Camping El Barco, situated under the cliffs and right on the beach. Enquiries showed there was plenty of room to park all five of us together and we were shown to our pitches, just one row back from the sea. It would appear that this site is not as popular as the others as it has little protection in poor weather, but even with a strong wind blowing it was more than acceptable to us.



Once set up and the flag raised – yes we’d even got a flag! – it being late lunchtime a decision was made to walk up into the old town, just above us on the cliffs, and have lunch. As expected it was very quiet but we found a likely looking place – The Star House – so piled in. The usual quite varied menu, some ordered tajine (a Moroccan speciality) in various guises and others grilled chicken. Eventually meals arrived – but somehow Brenda’s got missed while Terry was most unimpressed with his tajine viande (beef). All the others seemed to be okay however. Eventually Bren’s meal turned up but inevitably the chicken was almost raw, so it was sent back and as most of the others were finished, the order cancelled. Our first attempt at a proper meal in Morocco turned into a disaster. But we won’t let it put us off; back to the van for some proper sustenance.

Camping El Barco

Beachfront at Sidi Ifni

The consensus of opinion is that this place is good for a longer stop so that is what we’ll do. The WiFi and phone signals are decidedly iffy, but the site has free WiFi so this post has been done using that.